I can’t speak for every snake since I only have experience with one milk snake, but some milk snakes may prefer a shorter enclosure without much climbing height as babies. Don’t ever assume they aren’t strong enough to lift up or slide a lid open. In any case, the enclosure should be extremely secure, with locks or latches depending on what type of enclosure it is. It is not always necessary, but it may be easier to keep clean and find them.
Of course, since they are so small as babies, it may be preferable to start them out in a smaller enclosure and upgrade as they grow. 18-24 inches of width/depth is usually recommended, as well as a similar amount of climbing height. The enclosure should be a minimum of at least as long as the snake on one side (so you will have to prepare for the potential of needing a 6 foot or larger enclosure).
Tanks, tubs, PVC, or wood enclosures are common options. Honduran milk snakes can be kept in a variety of enclosures. Spring water, safe tap water (depends on where you’re located) or water with reptisafe is recommended. As for water, they should have fresh water at all times, changed daily. Impaction is not a huge risk with snakes, however if you are super concerned, you can feed over a plate placed in the enclosure. Feeding outside risks stress and regurgitation (which is potentially deadly, especially for a baby). Feeding should always be done inside of the enclosure. In general though, you should provide food with tongs. This usually isn’t a huge issue and can be resolved by covering their enclosure or turning off the light and leaving them alone to eat. They aren’t picky snakes, however when they are hatchlings they may be shy eaters. With milk snakes, it is usually not an issue and most will eat f/t. When purchasing your snake, make sure to ask the breeder (or rescue, previous owner, etc.) if they are eating frozen/thawed.
As babies they can eat once a week, but they should be switched or slowly moved to every 12-14 days once they’re near full grown. They should not stay on baby rats long-term, but if they are large enough to eat small or medium rats, then they should be switched to those.
While some may stay on large mice as adults, many may need to be upgraded to rats. As they grow, food should be upgraded appropriately. As hatchlings, most will start on large pinky mice, but some may be able to start on small/peach fuzzies. Milk snakes eat mainly rodents in captivity. Never handle while the snake is in shed (unless necessary), for 48 hours after eating, or while the snake is adjusting to its new home (usually 1-2 weeks is recommended). With regular handling (which in my opinion, should be no more frequently than 3 times a week), and as they gain size and become more confident, they will calm down significantly. Never try to restrain them unless necessary or they are more likely to musk or bite defensively. It’s best when handling them to let them move as freely as they want until they are more used to handling. Although it’s never a guarantee, Hondurans in particular have a higher chance than other milk snakes to be much calmer and less likely to musk. All milk snakes run the risk of being super flighty, musking, and biting defensively. Like many other milk snakes, Honduran milk snakes have a tendency to be shy and skittish, especially as babies. Hatchlings start out much larger than some other milk snakes (in the 20-30 gram range) so they may be easier to handle for beginners when they’re babies. They start out with clean patterning as babies, but unless they are of a different morph, they develop black tips on their red scales which gives them a darker look. Although many morphs exist, their wild-type coloration is red with black bands. They range from 4-6 feet on average, and it’s always best to prepare for their largest potential size. This species of milk snake is heavier bodied than some other milk snakes and has a tendency to get larger on average.